Hello i have a dresser that is currently painted with latex and has oil based polyurethane on top. Kaitlyn – the wood material has nothing to do with the adhesion. That primer is pigmented shellac and will cover *anything*. “Curing” is a drying process of sorts. I’m refinishing twin beds and have primed only part of the beds (with the BIN shellac primer, which I LOVE by the way:), but only the areas where there were a lot of dents & dings. Thanks. Find out what milk paint is, and which is the best to use for your next project. p.s. Although you’ll need to wipe down the furniture with soapy water before painting, you can generally skip sanding and priming because milk paint adheres well to wood and metal surfaces both matte and glossy. I’m doing it in my basement and I feel it’s dusty and am scared to seal due to the dust. Works perfect. Hi Mike, I have been working on painting my kitchen table. What type of sprayer do use for your projects? Thank you so much for your response to my question. Airless guns are wonderful and work quite well. I have used some chalk paint over the BIN and it scratches off. #2 Do I sand the painted AND glazed surfaces before applying first coat of polyacrylic and then between each subsequent coat EXCEPT final? I will now try to find a semigloss oil- based (hopefully,the Pro-classic enamel by Sherwin Williams.) So, I wouldn’t want to use a paste of any sorts. #5 How long to wait between coats of polyacrylic? Debbi. 120 grit is perfect, and to keep it simple, I’d grab some sanding sponges in that grade. If the poly has drips, just sand back the poly until you cut through those areas, then apply another coat of the poly. Thank you! No matter whether you’re choosing an interior or exterior paint, you’ll see a range of sheens: flat (matte), eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, and high-gloss, in order of lowest to highest luster. The price of chalk paint is unbelievable, you couldnât pay me enough to bother even trying it, I have always gotten good results from latex and acrylic paints, and I sure as heck wouldnât spend that much on paint without going to the work to make sure it is going to look good! I’m not against using oil or even the waterborne (sp?) Since this was thinned with water there should be no solvent to react with NC Lacquer thinners. Then my next question is can I spray the primer and oil based top coat with an airless gun, one typically used in automotive applications?? What do you suggest I do to eliminate the smell? What primer do you suggest? She put a wax on the top to help make a distress look. Sorry, I was having an email problem on my site, and I wasn’t getting these comments. I Love the outcome and surprisingly even my conservative mom loves them as well but I know if I ever sell my home I may have to paint the wood white for resale. Once oil paint is cured (21 days or so), you can put anything on it. The low end sprayers are OK, but they aren’t versatile enough because you usually can’t get alternate tip/nozzle sets for different coatings. What sort of paint and method should I use? please help. I have used small foam rollers in the past with latex and had good results. That all said, from everything I’ve read, I’ve concluded that the best thing to do is: sand and prime, paint with oil based paint, and use paste wax (versus water based polyacrylic). Good candidates for latex paint are end tables, shadow boxes, picture frames and stair railings. Good luck! 4) paint with whatever you want. Just scuff the trash and dust nibs out of the primer and go to town with the BM. What do I do now? How can we paint them to a smooth finish using foam roller brushes? Do I have to sand and prime it? I would like to start “fresh” ! I don’t want to replace it, too much money. Generally, you can’t tint a primer very much and the reason is because it would require too much pigment, therefore rendering the primer, well, not really a primer anymore. I am devastated. You’ve sold me on the Bin primer. Spoke with you on January 5, 2016 advising you that I had problems with posting my questions on your site. As an experienced restorer can I ask what products you would use? I would imagine since you are a professional you are “spraying” this paint. What’s the difference and which is the right choice for my project?” While this is not necessarily a difficult topic to cover, it is one which harbors tons of curiosity. If I were to use regular oil paint, what brand exactly. Here’s the big question…should we just polyurethane with the proper procedure….using oil or water? So I’d use BM primer, too? Dark wax would be my choice. 1. Good job! I have used it on numerous items and never had a problem however I could not get it to go on right on these tables and ended up having to send them back down to the bare wood. Would you do oil or Advance? Both acrylic and latex paints are made with acrylic ⦠It lends a uniform, like-new finish to old furniture, from vanities to folding chairs. and then paint with the Stulb’s. I hired a painter to paint my kitchen cabinets with said paint (the pro classic from sherwin williams) and unfortunately the cabinets have lots of brush strokes and rough areas to say the least. The BIN dries in minutes because it is Shellac. I’m painting an already- finished desk. Arazu – you can thin the Advance with tap water, perhaps a max of 10% by volume. Any help would be great. Is it ok for our family to be in the house? #2 – I would, just to be completely safe – with as much work as you’ve put into this, you may as well. I have done so (without removing the wax) and one day later the paint still seems very wet. Since then, its safety, environmental friendliness, and ease of use have motivated the ongoing development of latex paint technology. Cured paint will sand off normally. Strip and sand. I recently decided to redo my dining room table with chalk paint it showed brush strokes so buffed it redid with roller turned out great! I would suggest the Maroon color which is somewhere around 600 grit. I would of course prefer to not strip and then sand. You can order BIN on amazon here. Because itâs chemical-based, the chemicals in acrylic paint make it more elastic than latex paint. Most primers work for most woods, but some woods will give you problems, months, even years later if you don’t use the right stuff. But, for the sake of argument and “best practices”, I suggest you wait at least a couple weeks. Oil paint sticks to anything. To be fair, we don’t have any sort of sponsorship with them, and, Benjamin Moore has oil paint that’s just as good. Oil paint is very durable. You won’t regret it, and it’s the only coating which doesn’t care what the original coating was – you win. 4. If the piece has many contours, you might consider using a 3M scratch pad. Now I can go to to the home improvement store with confidence. What’s the best paint to use on furniture? Milk paint ($15 to $25 per quart)—a water-based product made from natural ingredients including limestone, clay, pigment, and the milk protein casein—can give your furniture instant patina. Can I put NC lacquer over a wooden frame (Pine) which I spray painted with water based acrylic paint which I also used to paint my walls? I have had trouble finding the right color, so it now has a couple coats on it. I sanded first and primed but they are already chipping! Really no such thing as “primer and paint all in one”. There are many factors to consider when choosing paint such as cost (oil paint is 4x more expensive than latex), availability (big box stores like Home Depot and Lowes don’t sell oil paint), and cleanup – oil paint must be cleaned up with solvents whereas latex paint can be washed up with warm water only. I would use oil-based paint, probably in flat. They leave a nice smooth surface and eliminate brush strokes. My friend recommended Benjamin Moore – the waterborne oil paint. Where latex paint will become damaged from a wet glass, just overnight, oil paint remains impervious to this sort of everyday abuse. After 3 days dry time, applied faux wood-grain treatment on dresser top using water base glaze and same paint used for entire project. If painting metal, stave off rust by using an oil-based, rather than a water-based, exterior primer (e.g., KILZ Complete Oil-Based Primer, available at The Home Depot). The only absolute 100% fail-safe bet is BIN pigmented shellac. A good sprayer for painting is the Earlex 5500. Mineral Spirits evaporates in minutes, so you should be good to go after that. Oh my. Hope that helps! Not to say that you are doing it wrong, because I’m not there, but I thought it was fair to mention that doing a good finishing job is not easy. I’m not really sure, but I’m leaning toward “no”. In latex paint, the carrier is typically water with glycols ethers as a solvent. Which manufacturer would you use as the paint? A: Although some paint brands carry dedicated furniture paint designed to dissuade brush marks and protect against scuffs (like Valspar’s Furniture Paint, available at Lowe’s), it can be pretty pricey—as much as $26 for a 29-ounce can. I’m worried about doing this project in the house and the smell of the oil paint. Seal milk-painted furniture with a water-based wax top coat (e.g., Polyvine Wax Finish, available on Amazon) to make the naturally matte coat slicker and easier to wipe clean, stave off scratches, and preserve the distressed finish. The term âLATEXâ in the paint actually refers to the resin (binder) used in the paint. I did VERY thin coats of primer and paint, so I needed that many to get complete coverage and then there’s that “thing” my parents pounded into our heads over and over….doesn’t matter if you’re the CEO of a multi-million $ corp or if you’re cleaning the latrines, if you’re working for yourself or for someone else, doing it for money or for free, take pride in your work and do the very best job you’re capable of doing. If the existing primer is adhering properly to the wood, there’s no need to strip it off. But, as a matter of good practice, I recommend cleaning the surface with Mineral Spirits, or better yet, Naphtha prior to painting your new art. I’ve learned so much on your site! Ultimately however, if you are serious about your project, the type of paint you use on your furniture depends on only two factors: (1) What will the furniture be used for and (2) How long must it last?. ⦠The Pro Classic comes in water and oil by the way. After reading all your comments I decided to switch to oil enamel paint, but not sure if I need to now strip off the primer and re-prime. If you don’t let oil paint cure -at least partially- it will be gummy when you sand it, and it doesn’t feather well when it’s like that. Most primers are only able to come in gray as the darkest color. What kind of paint? I have just painted two end tables an olive green and want to age the oil paint a bit to give it a bit of a brown patina Can I use dark wax to give it a subtle aged look or do I have to use an oil based glaze. You agree that BobVila.com may process your data in the manner described by our Privacy Policy. It’s just not worth skipping, all to find out 6 months later that your paint is failing. I don’t know if the finish is oil or water-based, but it is very thin and light colored, and I’m doing an art painting over it. Tried it out. Thanks so much for this – I realise it’s a bit old but it’s helped with my confusion too. Thank you SO much for sharing your knowledge on this informative site and for any advice you can give me. I suggest contacting the manufacturer of the lacquer and asking their tech department – I don’t want this blood on my hands . I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge freely with the world, and you have given me a lot of confidence to tackle my next project. Should I just paint the distressed parts and then one more coat to make it an even color (since I won’t be able to find an exact color match) or what would you recommend? What do you recommend? While priming for adhesion isnât always necessary, priming for the purpose of sealing the pre-existing stains, oils, or tannin from the wood can be important! I realize that the big box stores sell that stuff, but primer and paint are two different products, albeit of the same family, but different nonetheless. Then, I’d clean it using Naphtha and a scotch brite pad. Thatâs why the brushes canât be cleaned with water. While the paint comes in an array of traditional colors, is usually free of VOCs, and gives off only a mild earthy scent, it has a slightly longer dry time than latex paint, at two to four hours. 30-40 is what I consider “Satin” but take the word away, and you are left with the true measurement – which is derived from the amount of flattener used. Once again, thank you for your help. We typically use Sherwin Williams Pro-Classic Enamel. Mike, my wife and I just purchased a house with latex painted kitchen cabinets. LINK AT END OF THIS VIDEO! You’re problem is drying time. You’re advice is really helpful. You will first have to prep that table though. When the proper prep is not given on your piece prior to painting, you can end up with peeling paint. Most spray paint is oil-based and provides a more durable finish than latex paint. How many coats are on it? How did everything come out in the end? The second piece that I am considering is my bathroom cabinet from IKEA=cheap cabinet. Dry spray is when you don’t have the sprayer set up correctly(usually in terms of viscosity of material being sprayed) and you aren’t laying down enough material, so it leaves a rough texture just like overspray does. After chalk paint dries (in 15 minutes to an hour), seal it with a water-based wax top coat to add a soft shine to the naturally matte surface and achieve a slicker, easier-to-clean and harder-to-scratch surface. It would depend on the solvent package used in your nitro lacquer. 10) distress to your liking Why would you need to do that? Finally someone who knows their stuff. Then follow up with Poly(3 coats, sanding with 320 before each) and you’re done. After you get it all painted up, sand it using fine paper such as 320 grit. There are so many things to learn about, and it seems like a never-ending list of compatibility problems to keep in the front of your brain. I like “Simple Green” myself. Fallston, MD, Hey Ed – You need to clean the cabinets first using TSP(sold at most hardware stores). What kind of brush is best so I don’t see brush strokes and is it best to thin the paint or use as it comes out of the can? I don’t know about it yellowing, I have not heard that. Color particles are suspended in an acrylic polymer and offer a pop of rich color with a smooth finish. 2. Since the current finish is in very good shape, do you think I would still be well-served to use the TSP the hardware store sold me, or some gradation of sandpaper, or steel wool, or Nothing AT All, since it is the “forgiving” oil base? You want to clean and prime as normal, but use a flat paint – any paint you like – then apply an outdoor finish like Spar Urethane. I tried a chalk paint on a three-drawer dresser and waxed it twice), but I REALLY don’t like the color. While the Sherwin Williams Pro Classic Oil Enamel is a very tough paint, I would never want to rely on it to protect a high traffic table. Interior latex paint ($15 to $40 ⦠Hi. Hi! Thanks. Don’t have a sprayer or the skill set to use one, I’m afraid, so I guess I’ll stick with my faithful brush. Our top pick not only has a regal name but also adds a ⦠Either you end up with bleed through or you don’t. I have a new 4 door cabinet that is currently unfinished – we just had it built by a family friend. 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